[Dietician Renee] McGregor’s main concern about clean eating, she added, was that as a professional treating young people with eating disorders, she had seen first-hand how the rules and restrictions of clean eating often segued into debilitating anorexia or orthorexia.

“But I only see the positive”, said [“clean eating” advocate Madeleine] Shaw, now wiping away tears. It was at this point that the audience, who were already restless whenever McGregor or I spoke, descended into outright hostility, shouting and hissing for us to get off stage. In a book shop after the event, as fans came up to Shaw to thank her for giving them “the glow”, I too burst into tears when one person jabbed her fingers at me and said I should be ashamed, as an “older women” (I am 43), to have criticised a younger one. On Twitter that night, some Shaw fans made derogatory comments about how McGregor and I looked, under the hashtag #youarewhatyoueat. The implication was that, if we were less photogenic than Shaw, we clearly had nothing of any value to say about food (never mind the fact that McGregor has degrees in biochemistry and nutrition).

Bee Wilson on the “clean eating” cult.

As Wilson mentions in her article, I suppose if there’s one upside, it’s that the prevalence of bullshit clean-eating fad diets has made it much, much easier for people who have actual food intolerance and allergies–particularly ones gluten- or lactose-related–to access a broader range of tasty and appropriate options. So, yanno. There’s that.